A woman after my own heart

Has your heart ever led you to make a "crazy" decision?

When my maternal grandmother suddenly, in mid-life, opened a boarding house in Los Angeles so she could cook and gather and nurture people around her table, she amazed her family. She also lit my lifelong inspirational spark--women reinventing themselves.

Today that spark is reignited by Cathy Pavlos, a new friend and a sister member of Les Dames D'Escoffier International.

An architect, professor of architecture, and the department head at the University of Texas, Cathy Pavlos had a change of heart. Realizing that everything in that field had become computerized, and thus depersonalized, she had gone as far as she wanted to go.

Taking time off, she traveled extensively with her husband Elliott. "Wherever we went, I was drawn to the markets, the food shops and the restaurants in the cities--much more than the architecture. I could hardly help but notice that Orange County did not provide the kind of urban food experiences we found so easily in Chicago, San Francisco and New York, not to mention France or Italy."

Four years ago, wanting to share her own rich food legacy and provide something entirely new, Cathy completely changed careers by opening a restaurant and naming it Lucca after "the city in Tuscany where all the great olive oil comes from, and after my mom, Lucia, the feminine of Lucca."

It is not just any restaurant, but a unique and extraordinary restaurant, deli/charcuterie, cheese shop, and wine bar.

Here at Lucca Cafe I have enjoyed the best antipasto of my life. Below is my photo of her showcase featuring some specialty platters, an array of artisan cheeses, and a selection of Armandino Batalli's sausages (yes, Mario's father) from his salumeria called Salumi in Seattle. (My favorite is Salumi Agrumi brightly flavored with orange and cardamom.)

Cathy and recently I sat together at a rustic table by the window nibbling on Fleur du Maquis cheese and fruit when she began to tell me about her grandma's "Sunday Sauce" . . .

"My earliest memories of food and pleasure were Sunday dinners in the 1950's at my grandparents' house in Huntington Beach. My grandfather was a commercial farmer who raised tomatoes, lima beans, broccoli and alfalfa. I never tasted ‘store-bought’ produce until I went to college, so when someone told me to go get carrots, that meant going outside and digging them up.

“My mom has five sisters and I grew up with all of them.We had cousins in the fishing industry in San Pedro, the orchard business in Whittier, and some who owned a bakery in L.A. On Sundays, everyone would bring their basket of goodies to my grandma, Maria Bottari, to cook, because she was the best cook.

“We all sat around a big picnic table, anywhere from 10 to 30 people, and courses would just keep coming out of the kitchen. I remember so well the vivid colors, the textures, the aromas, the flavors, all the laughter, all the fun, and everyone helping out (even me). Whatever fish, veggies, bakery goods, wine and eggs were left were shared—no one went home empty handed.

“It never occurred to me that not all families lived like this. The lavish displays of food on Sundays seemed like magic because my grandma and the other women her age made it all look so effortless. As we were finishing breakfast we discussed what to make for lunch; while we finished lunch, we discussed dinner.

"When Grandma was cooking she was always happy, and she patiently described for me everything that she was doing and why it must be done in a particular way. Whether frying peppers, kneading dough, or preparing her Sunday Sauce, she never followed a recipe. My cooking lessons with her were intimate and we had a deep culinary connection, because she knew that her gifts were being passed on to someone who would cherish them. When she died, Grandma left me her stove--it is still in immaculate condition."

Lucca Café in Irvine (Orange County), California has a welcoming rustic décor. The lunch menu, less formal than dinner, offers remarkable tartines, imaginative salads, and reasonable pasta including penne with “Sunday Sauce.” On the menu as Grandma Bottari’s original Meat Ragu with Lucca Meatballs and Italian Sausage it is rich with tomatoes, meatballs, sausage and pork simmered for three hours and served over penne pasta with parmigiano—exactly as Grandma made it for more than 70 years.

"My big family, when gathered together, numbers close to 50. When I put a menu together for a big family party I had to come up that recipe for the Sunday Sauce (I told you that she never used a recipe). My aunts all argued over the taste, so we tried it many times until we got it just right. I remember asking over and over "Is that it? Is that it?"

Now everyone agrees: "That's it!"

"My parents come every Sunday for breakfast. When my cousins and brothers want some of Grandma's Sunday Sauce, they come in for lunch."

At dinnertime, Lucca becomes a European-style bistro serving cheeses and charcuterie along with "small plates" that keep cost down and flavors high. Cathy's husband Elliott Pavlos selects the wines for their extensive and imaginative list that offers more than 30 excellent wines by the glass.

“My grandma would certainly be very proud if she could see Lucca Cafe. And downright giddy that people come from all over just to eat her Sunday Sauce. But in the same breath, she'd cluck her tongue and say "I dunno Cati, alla dis education, and you wanna work inna da kitchen? Are you crazy?"

"I guess that I am, grandma, crazy just like you!”

Passion in one's heart paves the road to a crazy and adventurous journey!

CIPPOLINI IN AGREDOLCE

For about one quart

My very favorite selection on the antipasto menu! I keep a covered glass dish of these in the refrigerator at all times and use them in salads or on antipasto platters, or as garnishes for meat entrees.

3 pounds Cipollini onions, blanched and peeled (See note)

1 1/3 cups turbinado sugar

1/3 cup water

1 1/3 cups red wine

1 1/3 cups red wine vinegar

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) olive oil

¾ teaspoon sea salt

scant ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 fresh bay leaves

4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

Note: These are easy to find in farmers markets and supermarkets. (See photo below.) Trim and cut a little cross in the stem end of the onions. Drop them into a pot of boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and dunk in a bowl of cold water and ice. The skins then slip off easily.

Bring water and sugar to a boil over moderate heat in a large sauepot and boil until the syrup turns deep gold. Remove from the heat and carefully add the wine. Return to the heat. Add the onions, red wine vinegar, oil, bay leaves and salt and pepper and simmer for about an hour. Transfer onions with a slotted spoon to a glass storage container. Boil liquid until reduced to about a cup and a half--10 to 15 minutes. Stir in balsamic vinegar and pour liquid over onions. Cool to room temperature, then store covered in the refrigerator. For best flavor, chill for one to three days.

To prepare in advance: These will keep for weeks in the refrigerator if you don't devour them right away.

News from Lucca: Beginning now, on the Second Sunday of every month Lucca is introducing Sunday Suppers, a four-course menu from a different country complete with its specialties and rare wines. (You may become a fan on Facebook by joining the Lucca Café Fan Page, or simply emailmona@moxxepr.com to be added to a special VIP list and receive mouth-watering newsletters.

Best friends forever!

Is anyone more cherished than a best friend?

Mary Olsen Kelly and I met 25 years ago at a life-changing motivational seminar when we were assigned to each other as "Perfect Partners." Our task as a team was to set outrageous individual goals for ourselves and then do "whatever it takes" to achieve those goals in only three weeks. The stakes were high--failure was not an option! With daily phone check-ins we kept each other on track and accountable in achieving those goals "no matter what."

Mary's naturally ebullient energy and enthusiasm made our assignment of talking on the phone every day a joy. As our friendship and trust deepened, we realized we'd found the best friends we could each imagine. We did achieve those goals because we were great cheerleaders for each other and learned that we could be and do and have so much more that we had imagined.

In the 25 years that followed I comforted her through a painful divorce and consoled her as she yearned for a deep and lasting marriage just like mine. A few years later she met her future husband Don Kelly, and as she made plans to move to Hawaii to be with him, my husband Paul von Welanetz lay dying of cancer. Mary buoyed my spirits during that painful and poignant time, reminding me of my many blessings and how much life I had ahead.

Mary obtained a ministerial licence so she could perform ceremonies as a "celebrant" (no better descriptive word for Mary exists!) and when the time came for me to remarry, she officiated at Ted's and my ceremony and the weddings of two of our daughters.

When Mary was diagnosed with breast cancer ten years ago she rushed into our arms at the airport and found new resolve in our loving embrace. She told me how, because of the successful Tahitian pearl stores (the Black Pearl Gallery) she and Don built together, she always finds inspiration in how the pearl oyster deals with an irritant, turning the experience into something exquisite and unique. She was determined to do that through her treatments and she did by writing three inspirational books:

Path of the Pearl

Chicken Soup for the Breast Cancer Survivor's Soul

Tools and Tips from the Trenches of Breast Cancer

Here we are at one of her booksignings . . .

Mary and I have celebrated together over time far more than we have greived, and we stay in touch by text or email daily no matter where we are or how busy our lives often become.

Sometimes we travel together with our husbands. On our three week trip to Asia we dined in the oldest Peking Duck restaurant in Beijing . . .

Now she and Don have two homes, one in Maui and one here in Corona del Mar. The three of us look forward to our "Yoga Tuesday" when we meet at a restorative yoga class nearby then try out some local restaruant for lunch where we bubble over with news and catch up, still encouraging each other to go for it in our creative lives.

Husbands and hairstyles come and go,

but devotion as best friends endures forever!

ROASTED SALMON SALAD

WITH BERRIES, NECTARINES AND WALNUTS

No menu is more fun for me to create that Mary's annual birthday luncheon. We invite the members of our "Emergency Book Club," so named when a meeting was suddenly called when one of our members faced a crisis. Because Mary loves salmon, this year I made her a salad and topped it with salmon roasted in the manner of the Herbfarm Restaurant outside Seattle.

For 4 to 6 servings

ROASTED SALMON:

1/2 pound wild (not farmed) salmon per person, skinned

Olive oil to coat

Salt and pepper

parchment paper for roasting

SALAD:

6 cups mesclun or Herb Salad Mix

2 nectarines, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick

1 box each fresh raspberries and blackberries (if out of season, use 1/2 cup dried cranberries)

1/2 cup walnut halves, toasted

2 teaspoons capers, drained

BALSAMIC DRESSING:

1/4 cup raspberry balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon or stone ground mustard

1 teaspoon honey, or more (depending on the sweetness of the balsamic vinegar)

1 medium shallot, minced

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

To make the dressing, combine all but olive oil in a small mixing bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil--the dressing will emulsify and thicken thanks to the mustard. Set aside.

To roast the salmon, preheat oven to 225 degrees, or to 200 if using a convection oven. Coat the salmon with olive oil and place on a sheet of parchment on a baking sheet, seasoning it lightly with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes. (The salmon will be cooked through, but will have a translucent appearance.)

Toss salad ingredients in a large bowl with balsamic dressing. Divide between serving plates and top with salmon.

My heart is in Hawaii

I am basking in the remembrance of plumeria blossoms, the softness of tropical air and pastel sands and ocean waves foaming over my feet. Those early morning walks in Hawaii were just the beginning of long days filled with stimulation and growth at the best writers conference of all.

The enthusiasm in Deb's voice as she notified me of her enrollment in the upcoming Hawaii Writers Conference over the Labor Day weekend in Honolulu reminded me of my own seven years in a row of being a presenter there.

Conference co-founders John and Shannon Tullius are the most generous of leaders, taking care to fill every attendee with feelings of welcome, expansiveness and ohana (family).

I will always be grateful for the spirit of inclusiveness that led to finding my literary agent, polishing my romantic memoir (purchased by Lifetime for a movie-of-the-week) and becoming a co-author of my second Chicken Soup for the Soul title. Here I am with Jack Canfield at our book signing there:

If you are an aspiring writer, I encourage you to sign up right now.

Almost every day at the Conference we would make our way over to Longhi's restaurant for a serving of Opakapaka with Grapes. Now, still on my stay-cation in Corona del Mar (meaning that I am home but hardly working), the sight of sun-drenched green seedless grapes on Saturday at our local farmers market called to me to recreate the one recipe from Hawaii that most brings the flavors of Hawaii home.

My heart and my plate are filled with Aloha!

SAUTEED SNAPPER WITH GRAPES

In adapting this recipe from Longhi's: Recipes and Reflections from Maui's Most Opinionated Restauranteur, I doubled the sauce amount (I love lots of sauce!) and used red snapper from our California coastline instead of Opakapaka, the species of pink snapper found in the tropical islands of Hawaii.

1 pound snapper (or other fish of your choice), cut into two pieces

Sea salt

1/4 cup flour (I prefer Wondra for coating fish)

3 tablespoons butter, for sauteeing, plus

5 tablespoons chilled butter, cut in pieces, for the sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup white wine or dry Vermouth

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 to 2 tabelspoons cream

3/4 cup of green seedless grapes (cut in half lengthwise if large)

2 teaspoons snipped fresh chives or garlic chives, or parsley

Rinse fish and pat dry with paper towels. Lightly flour it on both sides.

In a skillet over medium heat heat the butter and olive oil until foamy; add the fish. Saute 3 to 4 minutes, then turn and saute on the second side for 3 to 4 more minutes. Remove form the pan and keep warm while you make the sauce.

Pour the wine and lemon juice into the pan drippings, scraping up any brown bits, and simmer the liquid over high heat until it is reduced to about 3/4 cup. Reduce heat to medium and whisk in the cold butter, a tablespoon or so at a time, until the liquid emulsifies into a sauce consistency. Remove from heat and stir in the cream, which will stabilize the sauce and keep it from separating.

Season to taste with salt. Add the grapes and chives or parsley. Pour sauce over servings of fish on warm serving plates.

Savoring summer and a simple sorbet

What does this new word stay-cation really mean?

According to Martin J. Smith, Editor-in-Chief of our local Orange Coast Magazine, it is “Opening our eyes to familiar beauty, appreciating the graciousness that surrounds us every day.”

Teddy and I are heeding his advice this summer and staying home to savor the bounty of our hometown of Corona del Mar.

Here is last night’s sunset seen from our patio:

And this morning during our breakfast

a surprise rainbow appeared out of nowhere

though there wasn’t the slightest sign of rain

Our farmer’s market on the campus of the University of California Irvine (UCI)

is offering something entirely new--luscious Japanese Kyo Ho grapes.

And the new “A” Market on Pacific Coast Highway was featuring Cypress Grive “Purple Haze” goat cheese flavored with lavender and fennel pollen. So I invited my friend Adrian over for tea. And, what did she bring me but a fragrant, flowering lavender plant!

I also got to meet Hamlet, my friend Kimberly’s pot-bellied pig for the first time and have lunch with him. Hamlet Pig has his own FaceBook page.

All of this within the past 24-hours!

And tomorrow night we’ll go to the Orange County Fair. We love blending into the huge crowds of people experiencing the pure enjoyment of of a warm summer evening.

We get high on the colors, the lights, the kids' screams coming from the rides, and pigging out (no offense, Hamlet!) on crazy foods like Krispy Kreme chicken sandwiches and corn dogs.

In the words of the poet Hafiz:

I

Do not

Want to step so quickly

Over this sacred place on God's body

That is right beneath your

Own foot

As I

Dance with

Precious life

Today.

BLACK CHERRY SORBET

I’m serving only the simplest and lowest calorie desserts in August. This one takes less than five minutes to make and really wows my guests.

For four servings

102 calories per serving

1 pound (1 package) frozen pitted sweet black cherries (available in most supermarkets)

¼ cup fresh orange juice (Use a zester to remove some of the rind before squeezing)

2 tablespoons Grand Marnier

Sprigs of fresh mint to garnish

Combine the ingredients, except mint sprigs in the bowl of an electric food processor fitted with the steel blade. (Sorry, this cannot be made in most blenders!)

Process to a smooth puree, stopping the motor from time to time to push the mixture into the blade with a rubber spatula. As soon as the mixture is smooth, spoon it into serving dishes. Garnish with mint and serve immediately.

To prepare in advance: Make this one hour of serving. If not serving immediately, store it in the freezer in the serving dishes for up to, but not longer than, one hour. If frozen longer it solidifies.

Be careful what you wish for!

When I was a child, I actually had no idea that we had to pay for food in restaurants. I assumed those expansive and generous beings who seemed delighted to bring us whatever we wanted must be some kind of angels. They dazzled me!

So, naturally, when someone asked me at age five what I wanted to be when I grew up, I said, “Either a waitress or a movie star!”

While other girls played with dolls, I had two favorite solitary games. Making up recipes and writing them on index cards to put in a recipe box like my Mom’s, and playing "short order cook." I separated my bedroom and my small dressing room with a book shelf I pretended was a counter. I would stand at pretend tables and take down orders on an order pad I bought with my allowance at the dime store. Slapping the order on the counter, I would vanish behind the counter and become the short order cook. Truly, I never tired of this game.

My parents were early foodies and shared a curiosity about dining experiences. On Sunday drives or summer vacations our destinations were always restaurants such as Philippe’s French Dip sandwiches in downtown Los Angeles, the Original Pancake House in Portland, Oregon, and Anderson’s Split Pea Soup in Buellton, California.

Their tenacity in tracking down tantalizing tastes had a tremendous influence on who I would become professionally.

Years later when my late husband and I hosted our own television cooking series it occurred to me I had indeed become a movie star/waitress.

Be careful what you wish for!

CHOCOLATE LEAVES

For 12 leaves

Because I love to be dazzled and to dazzle others, my specialty has become making simple things that people notice and remember. So it is with these easy chocolate leaves . . .

Heat about 2 ounces of chopped chocolate of your choice in the top of a double boiler, stirring just until completely melted. Remove the top portion of the pan set aside to cool for a few minutes.

Use a table knife to spread the chocolate thickly over the backs of clean, fresh citrus or camellia leaves.

Place on wax paper, chocolate side up, in the refrigerator until the chocolate has hardened. Carefully pull the real leaves away from the chocolate ones. (See illustration.)

Use the leaves as surprise toppings for ice cream and just about any chocolate dessert.

To prepare in advance: Chocolate leaves will keep in the refrigerator or freezer if they are carefully wiped of surface moisture that could cause white spots. They are great to have on hand for dressing up simple desserts and needn’t be thawed before serving.

The Real Deal

What shall I do to make tonight's party truly enjoyable?

I asked myself yesterday morning.

I was preparing a dinner for a cherished friend and her family who will be moving to another state next month. Her son-in-law, who I would meet for the first time, loves to cook, so he would be arriving early to be my sous chef and learn some cooking techniques.

As I was setting the table I noticed I was becoming a bit obsessed, wanting it all to be "perfect," an impossible goal, so I paused.

Asking a question then waiting in a state of openness for an Aha! or insight, has become a trusted process. Soon I sensed the answer: Relax, be present, be real. Focus on creating good feelings and it will be perfect no matter how it turns out.

My confusion cleared. Remembering a huge chunk of Parmesan cheese on hand, I decided the appetizer should be Fricos, those crispy cheese appetizer wafers made by simply spreading small circles of grated cheese and topping with fresh herb leaves on a parchment paper covered baking sheet, then baking at 350 degrees until lightly browned and bubbling. When they have completely cooled they become crisp and crunchy. Everyone loves them and loves getting involved in gathering herb flowers in my garden to create their own.

Or, I could simply demonstrate wrapping some proscuitto around grissini breadsticks to serve next to the cheese.

My parmesan of choice is Parmigiano-Reggiano, the very best, and most imitated imported brand named after the areas of Parma and Reggio Emilia in Emilia-Romagna, Italy where it is produced. Its name is stamped on the rind and its slightly salty, piquant flavor, makes it one of the best cheeses for enjoying alone and for seasoning recipes.

Ever noticed those tiny crunchy crystals in the hard, strong-flavored grating cheeses classified in Italy as grana? The word refers to those tiny crystals suspended in the cheese. Those are not salt crystals but crystals of the enzyme tyrosine that occur due to long maturation, a quality imitation Parmesan just doesn't have. Since true Parmigiano-Reggiano is available almost everywhere, even at Costco--No faux parmesan for me!

Among the most astonishing recipes from one of my books, and one I decided to add to the menu is a Parsley Salad enthusiastically shared with me by the late James Beard when I attended his classes in his home town of Seaside, Oregon, many years ago. Guests never stop raving about it and it stands up well without wilting. Thank you, James Beard! (He was the real deal too.)

The salad was a big hit. I served a Halibut Saltimbocca that I have yet to share with you, and the amazing Raspberry Chocolate Souffles from an earlier blog. The menu was simple and seasonal and sensational.

Best of all were all the good feelings of a relaxed hostess and her friends having fun preparing and sharing a delicious meal.

JAMES BEARD’S

PARSLEY SALAD

For 5 or 6 servings

This salad that doesn’t sound special but it is—very!

Serve it in very small portions on overlapping thin slices of ripe heirloom tomatoes as a first course. Made in larger quantities and heaped in a bowl on a buffet, it will create a sensation!

4 cups curly parsley, leaves only, washed and dried (depending on size, 1 to 2 bunches)

1 clove garlic, peeled

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons finest quality red wine vinegar

1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Note: I use a food processor, either large or mini, to "grate" Parmesan just before I add it to a recipe. Cut the cheese into ½ inch cubes and chop them finely with the steel blade rather than with the grating disc, which will break when a hard cheese is pressed too vigorously against it.

Place the parsley leaves in a bowl. Combine the garlic, olive oil and vinegar in a blender container, and process until garlic is pureed. Pour enough of the dressing over the parsley to coat it evenly and toss lightly. Sprinkle the grated cheese over and toss well to distribute the cheese evenly and coat every leaf with dressing and cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To prepare in advance: This is best freshly made at room temperature, but keeps quite well in the refrigerator for up to two days.

Summer’s Bounty

My kitchen has been overflowing with heartfelt connection lately.

I find nothing more fulfilling than spending a late morning with with a close friend stirring up something seasonally delicious for lunch.

Sometimes we even discuss the big questions in life as we share our favorite recipes.

Three years ago, for instance, my friend Deb was wondering “Can a CEO of a Fortune 100 company change out of her power suit and into some comfy sweats and learn to write a novel?” Now we know the answer is yes, for she is here today to hear my truthful feedback about the very polished 350 pages she emailed into my Kindle a few weeks ago. She knows she can count on me for honesty, for that is how deep friendships are forged.

As we rinse and hull some strawberries and pat crumbs into a pie pan I tell her there are only two words in the whole manuscript that don’t work for me. I’m beaming with pride in both her writing and her ability to reinvent herself. My sincere raving is balm to her soul.

Sometimes, of course, our conversations are less celebratory and more about weathering life's changes, but they are always deeply comforting.

And, look how stunning our pie turned out to be! So quick and easy to make, the beauty of it creates such excitement in guests that I can’t stop making it. Three pies in three days!

Another friend, Trish, so loved the pie I made for her party last evening she filled my arms with these hydrangeas from her garden.

Sharing food and friendship is as good as it gets!

SIMPLE AND SPECTACULAR STRAWBERRY PIE

For six servings

We used a fluted spring-form pan for the pie in the photo because it makes the pie easy to cut and serve once the side of the pan is removed. The plate is garnished with a nasturtium and a rose geranium leaf.

4 boxes (2 quarts) medium size strawberries

¾ cup sugar

2½ tablespoons cornstarch

½ cup water

Juice of ½ lemon

Graham Cracker Crust:

1 ¼ cups graham cracker crumbs

¼ cup sugar

5 tablespoons butter, melted

Whipped cream for serving

Rinse and hull the strawberries. In a mixing bowl, mash about one box (one-fourth) of the berries (I use a sturdy pastry cutter for this). Set aside the whole berries.

In a medium saucepan, stir together the sugar and cornstarch. Whisk in the water, lemon juice and crushed berries and cook over medium heat until the mixture has thickened. Let cool.

Meanwhile, make the crust. Stir together the crumbs, sugar and butter and press evenly into the bottom and sides of a 9- or 10-inch pie dish. Bake in the center of a 350-degree oven for 8 minutes to firm it and make it sturdy and easy to serve. Let cool slightly.

Now, add the whole berries to the strawberry sauce, coating them evenly. Arrange, tops up, in the crust. One even layer of strawberries makes this easiest to cut into slices. Chill for at least an hour before serving.

TO PREPARE IN ADVANCE: The crust may be made a day or two ahead. Store it in a plastic bag at room temperature. Make the strawberry filling the day of serving.